Brazil ’08

Thursday, February 21, 2008

Rio: Yosimite meets Wikiki

I’m in Rio now for my last couple days. Its geographically wild. Like Yosimite meets Wikiki: these monstrous buttes and spires jut up around the dense urban beach city. Also bloody hot so it reminds me of nyc in the summer. Where I’m staying in Ipanema feels like Madisson Ave with all the super spendy shops. Unlike Madisson Ave though the beach here is a block away.

Honestly I’m a bit over the solo travel thing, at least until I get a better handle on Portuguese. I usually have no trouble making friends and pluggingin, but this feels like work. Its been a good experiment. Can’t remember the last time I was this tan. Yikes.

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Brazilian moon

Ok some things really Brazilian…

I’ve seen lots of butt floss, and its a full moon soon, so there’s some cosmic symetry there. And this is of course the home of the Brazilian Wax, though a good wax goes unnoticed.

Right now the air in this internet shop is super stagnant. It started raining outside, and they only have one door open. It smells like some of these guys need a shower more than just another dip in the ocean.

As I said, it was pouring a moment ago. Its pretty reliable that every afternoon it gets stormy. Kinda nice really. Although my scooter helmet is now full of water.

Porto Allegre, another city up the coast, won a soccer game today. So a crew of eight or 10 Allegrans in blue soccer jerseys are outside beating drums and singing. Periodically cars honk in fan kinship. When the Brazilian national team won a match a few days ago everyone went nuts, driving around yelling out their cars, waving flags, lighting off fireworks.

Friday, February 15, 2008

sunburned eyeballs

Slightly sunburned eyeballs and that punchy water logged feeling today.

Met some English folks who’re staying at my hotel. They talk funny (one called me a “git”), and get hammered often. The girls keep finding themselves taken advantage of by Brazilian men. Oops.

I was at a nightclub last night, and it felt almost like Walnut Creek, girly-girls and thug-fabulous guys; only dif was the band playing Ameri-pop covers and the entire crowd singing along, all with bad accents.

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Floripa

I'm now in Florianopolis in the south.
Its
an island with lakes and beaches
and surfing and an affluent summer vacation crowd.
Talk about contrast from
Bahia. Wow.
The first day the surf was so big I couldn't even make it out.
I've been riding around
the island on a scooter.
Brazilians drive like they're on fire.
Still not a lot of English spoken, and only a little Spanish.
So when I get an English conversation its like a delicacy.

Oh and the sun is so strong it stings.
People here are tanning here like
its 1983. Not this Norwegian.
I have yet to figure out the club scene.
Supposed to be pretty huge, but it
changes venues so I need some local input.
I switched to a bungalow on Praia Mole.
Its much nicer than the cell I had at Praia Joaquina.
A week left here in Floripa.
We'll see if I can find some english or spanish speakers
to befriend.

Its high summer here so the sun doesn't set here until 9pm or so.
The day just goes on and on
and on...

Wednesday, February 6, 2008

I made it here without a hitch (except for leaving my mp3 player on one of my flights in a daze). With layovers it took me about a day and a half. The hostel I´m in is in the old part of Salvador. Cobblestone streets, narrow alleys, large gringo population. When I arrived the smell alone put me on my heels, though now I can´t smell a thing. Maybe its because they wash down the streets every morning.

Salvador is a pretty big city – 17 million people. And there´s poverty here. Deep poverty. I wander off the beaten track and its suddenly beyond sketchy. But I haven´t even seen a true favela yet.

Faces are so different. Often the eyes are really wide apart, an indian trait I think. The skin here in the North more dark than caramel. The men have this big teddy bear aspect, brawny, warm, loud, lethal. The women occassionally give me a look so predatory I´m not sure if its flirtatious or just hungry. The lower socioeconomic strata, most of the population, is so varied I can only barely catch whats going on. There´s an entire economy of scams, like home I suppose only here its clad in filth, not starch.

Carnaval ended last night. 3 days of it was enough for this gringo. I went out with a group of friends from my hostel. We took a bus to Barro, where the major party took place. Fatboy Slim headlined. He was up on this massive float. We followed it for hours dancing and thumping. (FYI: “Tunt, tunt, tunt” is the Brazilian onomateopoeia for techno bass). My body was slick with sweat, mine and everyone elses. Had several people try to pick my pocket, but that was the worst of it.

Another two days here in Bahia. Should be interesting to see how/if Brazil sleeps off the last weeks revelry.

Stiffed

Thursday, August 21, 2003

Anybody read this book called “Stiffed,” by Susan Faludi?

Amazing analysis of the plight of masculinity. I’m only a hundred pages into it. Faludi is actually a noted feminist. Her book seems to shed light on what I’ve been feeling most of my adult life. Being a man is a very limited role. Being a man is not what was two generations ago. Men were told they would be inheritors of this nation and this world. Men are now caught between an old value system and a modern world in which we are superfluous.

[Some of the ideas here I saw illustrated (allbeit comically couched) in the movie “Roger Dodger.” ]

The old male value system of strength and integrity is irrelevant in our image based society. The service jobs of today don’t rely on man’s industriousness, or his character. Men have become media defined objects – The Metrosexual Male – judged on our appearance. In the 70’s feminists fought to break women from the limits of this objectification. Maybe they didn’t tear down the superficiality, but they gave voice to the situation surrounding women.

There are many forces at work keeping us quiet, having us question ourselves rather than society at large. As a man this “Crisis of Manhood” panders to a dangerous zone of my psyche- The Victim. And voicing a problem, complaining like a victim is not part of the old male ideal of stoicism and quiet determination.

As men we have no jobs, no value system, no integral role in the family unit. This is a problem.

hopefully ranting will help me get out of this hole

Wednesday, August 06, 2003

So here goes. I’m getting more versed in just spewing my diatribe out to the public and seeing if something comes of it.

I’m at a poiniant juncture in my life where I have nothing but options. My life has been this way in varying degrees as long as I can remember. But right now it really jumps out at me because not long ago I had a really full existence. Too full in some senses. My current stuff is frantic, nothing new there. But not long ago I had meaning. I had someone who was incredibly important to me. Now she’s gone. Absent. Having your heart broke is like a death in the family. Suddenly the void. If you learn one thing about me its that I’m melodramatic.

J was the most serious, passionate relationship I ever had. It was only 6 months.

9/11/03

Just a note’s all I have time for.

Mournful day. Mournful time in general.

But there’s hope.

Changes are coming.

SF is a burnt bitter place now. Relations here are stilted. If there are relations. Everyone has too much to do. And for me none of it adds up to anything worthy.

Thank God for Vay.